Is there anything worse than knowing a vacation is coming to a close? Especially a lengthy vacation that has started to feel like normal life a little bit, but then you remember reality is slowly creeping its way back in? I absolutely HATE that feeling.
Like a Sunday evening when you can’t even fully relax because you know what lies around the corner. Sundays used to be the absolute worst for me; my anxiety was always peaked. After graduating college, and subsequently no longer equating Sundays to hungover days locked in the library, catching up on homework and hating myself for procrastinating, that anxious Sunday Feeling loosened its powerful grip. But I could still feel it–maybe not as potent as before, but nonetheless always there.
Since we moved down here, however, and the whole concept of a weekend and a vacation have become intermingled in my normal, everyday life (is my whole week like a weekend, or a vacation?) the ominous Sunday Feeling has become nearly extinct. Every once in a while, though, it rears its ugly head.
As we got in the car for the last part of our vacation, my mom still bawling in the driver’s seat, both her and Carly saying goodbye to our house and Rodeo, I got the damn Sunday Feeling. And I really ruminated on it there in the backseat.
I thought about how many perfectly lovely Sundays have been ruined by my anxiety about what’s to come. I thought about all of the millions of people in the world who absolutely love Sundays, how for many it’s their favorite day of the week. No more. No more Sunday Feeling, no more ruining the present by worrying about the future, not this time. Not on this trip. It’s my Jordan year–time to let the Sunday Feeling die.
I’m not one for New Year’s resolutions, but I did kind of start this new mantra to stop my anxious thoughts right in their tracks: It’s 2018, let that shit go. It’s silly and stupid and simple, but it works. The situations I apply it to don’t always make the most sense, but who cares. ~not me~
So there in the backseat, I thought about the Sunday Feeling, I thought about the end of the vacation, I thought about the growing lump in my throat from just thinking about saying goodbye to my family again, and then I said my magic phrase: It’s 2018, let that shit go. Who cares that it was going to suck when it was over, we still had FOUR whole days together, and I was going to live it up and love it while it happened. So I swallowed that lump down, began my backseat navigation duties, and we headed out to the last staple-landform of Costa Rica: the beach.
Manuel Antonio
All of our friends that have gone to Manuel Antonio have gushed about how incredible and how beautiful it is. According to anyone who’s been there, it’s a must-do in Costa Rica.
The small town of Manuel Antonio sits between the edge of Manuel Antonio National Park and the nearby city of Quepos. The entire town is very hilly, coastal, and offers a great view from virtually anywhere. For a small place, there are a lot of hotels since it’s one of the biggest tourist spots in Costa Rica.
Checking into our hotel was a bit of a shitshow. The driveway was steep, gravel, bumpy, and terrifying. Then, the room they tried to put us in had water all over the floor (it looked like they were in the middle of fixing the air conditioner) so we had to wait to find another room. Turns out the hotel was totally booked, so we had to wait for them to put the A/C back together and mop the floor.
In the meantime, we walked back up to the car to get all of our luggage/move the car into an actual parking spot, since we sort of just stopped on the side of the driveway. As we started moving, a guy nearby started laughing and motioned for us to stop the car.
Well that’s weird.
So we re-park, get out, and as I looked at the car I realized why he was laughing. The back passenger-side tire was flat. Like, flat flat. I didn’t want to tell my mom. I couldn’t. She was so paranoid about something happening to the car on these roads, and we all told her it would be fine but now it wasn’t fine and I just knew she was gonna panic. But I had no choice, she had to know.
“Mom, don’t freak out, it’s fine, but we have a flat tire.”
*lots of cursing and inaudible sounds*
“Oh my god, we have to go home, what are we going to do, of course this would happen to us, why me whyyyyyyyy.”
“Mom relax, we’ll get it fixed, it’s just a flat tire.”
At this point, Carly and Landyn walked up to meet us in the parking lot and discovered our lil predicament.
Anita thought this would incapacitate us BUT MY BOYFRIEND IS THE GREATEST HUMAN EVER and was able to completely change the tire start to finish. A hotel staff member came to assist as well (for which we later bought him a 6-pack) and we were up and running in no time. The rental car company was actually very chill about it and simply requested that we drop off the destroyed tire in their nearby Quepos office the following morning where they would repair the hole for us (we found a huge shard of aluminum in it which must have happened in the ratchet hotel driveway).

Crisis averted.
After handling the catastrophe, we had twenty minutes to spare to make the sunset on the beach. It was a three-minute walk from the hotel, and once we got there I understood why tourists flock to it: it was one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.
The sunset, the atmosphere, the greenery that surrounded us…it was truly breathtaking. We found a restaurant with tables right on the beach (literally in the sand) and it was without-a-doubt the coolest dinner-ambiance I have ever experienced.
Throughout the trip, I kept telling my family that I couldn’t wait for them to hear a Howler monkey because the first time I heard one I thought I was about to be attacked by something from the Underworld. I wanted them to have this strange, scary experience as well.
So it’s roughly 3am, I wasn’t having a very good night of sleep, I heard my mom get up to go to the bathroom, and I laid there half-awake when SUDDENLY I hear the sound of a Demogorgon (S/O to all my fellow Stranger Things fans). I sat straight up in bed and whispered over to Carly, “Carly wake up, that’s a Howler monkey!” It was so loud that Landyn woke up, too, and when my mom came out of the bathroom I explained what the petrifying noise was to her, as well. It was a strange, funny time: all four of us lying in bed, wide awake, listening to the incessant baying of the Howler monkeys. Talk about quality bonding time.
The next morning we were up early to head to the rental car office. For being such turds when we first picked up the car in San José, they were awesome in dealing with our tire situation. It only took ten minutes out of our morning.
Then, we were headed to Manuel Antonio National Park. It was exquisite. We saw almost every single animal I had hoped my family would get to see, with the exception of the scarlet macaw. But it’s okay because we saw a sloth, every type of monkey I know to exist in Costa Rica, huge, colorful butterflies, iguanas, coatis, lizards, and even some deer. And, of course, tons of beautiful, diverse tropical birds.
I had heard from a few people that the park is relatively small and you can hike the entire thing in just a couple of hours, but we hiked for about 5 without getting all the way around. We also did every possible off-shoot from the trail and stopped to enjoy the scenery/animals whenever present, so maybe that’s what tacked on all that extra time.
The park has a very interesting layout; the trail comes out to a point, forming a peninsula type thing, along the sides of which are two beaches.
Since the beaches are within the park’s boundaries, and therefore largely untouched, they’re indescribably gorgeous. Words, pictures, could never do them justice.
So after a couple off-shoots, we hiked entirely up one side of the peninsula, around the top, and a little ways back down, finishing at one of the beaches. At this point we were extremely hot and sweaty (it was SWELTERING and SO humid) and ready to get in the alluring water.
Our entire time inside the park felt like we were on a different planet. Despite my residency here, I am continually blown away that the places we visit get more and more incredible. More unbelievable. More and more like someone picked me up and transported me to Pandora and I’m looking at some CGI creation, not real life. Because how can places like these really exist? What the hell have I been doing in Wisconsin all this time?
On our way out of the park, the nightcap on our perfect day, we got some fresh, spiked coconuts. Pipas con ron. And with that, we began our drive to our very last stop: Uvita.
Uvita
Uvita is an hour south of Manuel Antonio, right on the edge of the Osa Peninsula, which, if you’ll remember, Landyn and I traveled to for a class field trip back in February. We, however, were in the very heart, and then the very bottom, of the Osa Peninsula. Uvita sits outside of it, and it was a place we had not been but we had read excellent things about it. Our friends took a trip down to Uvita and highly recommended it.
When Niters first started researching things to do in Costa Rica (after Landyn’s acceptance into the program last March) she came across a beach that’s in the shape of a whale tail. For whatever reason, she fell in love with the idea of this beach; she had a great feeling about it, and that beach was located guess where? Uvita. So we were all pretty excited about this last stop.
Now I’d like to back up for a second. Remember how I’d been killing it as a travel agent? Well, during that first night in Manuel Antonio, randomly, in the middle of our beachfront dinner, I got this overwhelmingly negative feeling about our Uvita hostel. My family thought I was crazy and just back to my usual worry-wart ways, but I just knew something was off. Something wasn’t right. They told me to let it go, so I said my mantra, “it’s 2018, let that shit go” (one of those, not-really-sure-the-2018-part-makes-sense-but-I’m-rollin-with-it times), and I let that shit go.
And I really didn’t worry about it again until we got back in the car, out of the Manuel Antonio/Quepos city limits, and headed south. Then the gloom and doom and dread rolled in. I didn’t say anything, I just let my anxiety quietly wash over me in the backseat.
When we got to the hostel, I immediately knew my gut was spot on. This was the place people stay in and then end up on an episode of Dateline or Criminal Minds.
It was called El Toboso Bed & Breakfast, and I had warned my family ahead of time that this was going to be a little more rustic than our other stays. But the pictures online did not prepare me for what we walked in to.
So aside from the eerie stillness in the air, the rabid dog in the driveway, and the facilities that looked like someone gave up on them halfway through the building process, our room was a complete disaster. Or rather, an incomplete disaster.
Our room only had three walls. One wall was just a giant, green screen with gaping holes. Our beds did not have mosquito netting around them, so not exactly sure what they expected?? They’re cool with their guests getting mauled by bugs in the middle of the night I guess?? Due to the lack of four walls and holes in the screen wall?? Oh, and our bathroom didn’t have a door. Not even a shower curtain. Just wiiiiiiide open. And our front door didn’t close properly. I cannot make this shit up, you guys.
Beyond all these glaring atrocities, I just had a staggeringly terrible feeling about the place. Throughout our time here Landyn and I have stayed in some pretty ratchet places. We are not used to a life of luxury down here, by any means, so the lack of walls wasn’t even necessarily the problem. The problem was that all of my instincts were telling me that something just wasn’t right, and every time someone ignores their gut instincts in a horror movie they end up dying first. So. There was no way we were going to stay there.
Landyn didn’t understand. He doesn’t have that strong intuition like I do, and since we’ve stayed in some questionable places, he could not fathom my trepidation. We argued about it for about twenty minutes before the support of my mom and Carly finally got him off my back. It was like the scene inside our apartment for the first time, our first night in Rodeo, all over again. Except this time I was right. We needed to get the hell out of there. The longer we lingered, the more imminent our death became. Or something real weird, at least.
Except my mom paid for it when we checked in, before we saw the room. I almost spoke up and said something, I almost told her to wait until we saw our room, but I didn’t. The online booking site has my card number on file, so we would’ve been charged either way, but still.
It was just a really awful situation punctuating the end of a truly fabulous day. So, my mom and Landyn went to talk to the reception dude and Carly and I looked up nearby hotels.
Landyn and Niters came back with unreadable expressions. The front desk guy was pissed, naturally, and made an already awkward situation abundantly more uncomfortable by just sort of staring at them, blankly. Like y’all THIS IS WHY WE COULD NOT STAY. SOMETHING WAS JUST NOT RIGHT.
He told us he would call his boss and see what they could do for us.
Thankfully, by the grace of God and Allah and Buddha and Jesus, too, he came back with good news: the people who owned this hostel owned another place in the area, a hotel called Los Sueños Tranquilos. He said we were welcome to check it out as it was our only option aside from losing all the money we just spent on our room at El Toboso. Please, Lord Baby Jesus, don’t let it be like this place.
And it WAS NOT. I am very, very happy to report that this room had four walls, a bathroom door, and even some A/C. Oh. My. God. To say I felt like we dodged a bullet is a drastic, drastic understatement.
We had a (very very very very very) rough start in Uvita, but things were looking up. We got some fish tacos for dinner, had a couple cervezas, and I started to come down off the ceiling. Then it was time to laugh about how disastrous El Toboso was. For my first time as a full-service travel agent, I killed it with 2/3 of my hotel picks, and I’m proud of that. But, man, the one I fumbled I fumbled BAD. You can’t always trust the pictures online, friends.
The next day, we got up early and headed out to the National Park which housed the whale tail beach.

It was so, so cool. The beach felt extremely remote and tropical since it was inside of a protected area. The only thing you could see on the coastline was mountains upon mountains and tons of greenery. The sand felt soft to the touch but looked like glass. The water was so blue. It was amazing.
The whale tail itself appears during the low tide hours (around mid-morning) and as the tide comes back in throughout the second-half of the afternoon, the walkway out to the whale tail disappears again. It was so much more than I thought it was going to be; Manuel Antonio set the bar very high but the whale tail was just so, so cool. The vastness of the entire beach, and the size of the tail, completely blew my mind. It was the kind of thing that made you feel tiny and insignificant but in a good, comforting sort of way.

We played in the waves, walked out and explored the whale tail (which has some crazy rock formations on the end of it, including some old lava flows) and introduced my family to an activity Landyn and I have become obsessed with since moving down here: snorkeling. The tail is known to be an excellent place to snorkel since the rocks form dozens of clear tide pools. So we ventured out and got to exploring.
Seeing all of the brightly-colored, exotic fish of all varying sizes is just the coolest thing in the world. I was SO happy my mom and Carly were huge fans of it, as well.

We stayed on the beach the entire day, using chips and queso and several beers as our only sustenance. And despite our repeated sunscreen application, we got fried like a bunch of chicken tenders. It was all worth it, though, especially when we watched the sunset.
There truly is nothing like a sunset on the beach.
We headed back to the car, saw a crocodile five feet away from our car, and promptly headed out to find food. Except during the ten minute span from our parking spot to the hotel, there was a slight complication: the entire town went dark. It’s not uncommon to randomly lose power in Costa Rica, even entire towns at a time. Thankfully, there was one lone restaurant in town that had a generator, so the entire city flocked to the same place. Luckily, the food was excellent and rest of the town’s power was restored in the middle of our meal so we had functioning A/C for that night’s slumber (fun fact: I HATE being hot while I sleep).
And suddenly, in the blink of an eye, it was my family’s last day in Costa Rica. None of us knew how 12 days flew by so fast. Since we were incinerated the day before on the whale tail, we decided to take our time heading out to the beach in the morning. It’s not like we needed the extra rays, so we slept in and took our time chatting and enjoying breakfast together.
In a last-ditch effort to see a scarlet macaw, Landyn found a beach 20 minutes south of us, inside the Osa Peninsula, that had excellent online reviews and boasted the opportunity to see the incredible birds we sought after.
We almost didn’t make it to the beach, though, since my mom tried to back out when we were two minutes from the finish line. There was a “river” that ran through the gravel road, and despite the car before us flying through it (not even an SUV, might I add) and the car behind us also impatiently zooming around us, my mom threw a hissy fit. She cited the rental car company’s policy on not taking the vehicle through any rivers, and all of us passengers were floored.
“Mom, I love you and I understand your paranoia about them charging you for ridiculous things, but this is not a river. This is a puddle. That is maybe three inches of water, max.”
“No, Cari, that is a river, they said not to take it through any rivers, I am not losing my deposit over this. What the hell is with all these gravel roads anyways, I’m done with this shit.”
After a couple rounds of this and ten minutes of staring at the glorified-puddle, Niters found her inner courage and we braved the “river.” And it was every bit as anti-climactic as the rest of us knew it would be. But, wow, was it hilarious to see her lose her mind over a puddle.
The beach was marvelous. Since Semana Santa was now in full-swing, (Semana Santa is a nationwide holiday week in Costa Rica, always the week before Easter, during which everyone not in the hospitality industry gets off of work and vacations for seven days), there were various vendors on the beach selling coconuts, ice cream, and souvenirs. We rented a table with a tent overhead (burnt chicken tenders, remember?) and planted ourselves for the afternoon.
We explored nearby caves and were awestruck by the thunderous wave sounds inside. It was like something you’d see artificially reconstructed in the Wisconsin Dells, except it was real life.
We did, however, have one major tragedy ensue: my mom lost her hat. She bought a super cute hat (pictured above) from a shop in Arenal and wore it nearly every day for the remainder of the trip. Now I had warned her and Carly not to wear hats in the ocean, especially on this beach because the waves were particularly big and strong, but they ignored my advice since their faces were so sunburnt.
Lo and behold, a big wave came along and I jumped, Landyn jumped, Carly jumped, but mom did not jump. Mom got mowed over by this wave. Just totally taken out. TKO. Down for the count. When she popped up above water, her hat was no longer on her head, but in the water behind her. As she struggled to get recombobulated, Carly and I tried to run towards her while yelling, “Mom, you’re fine, grab your hat!” This was to no avail. Running through the ocean is hard, and we didn’t make it in time. The four of us searched and searched, but the beloved hat was gone. *RIP*
It was a very somber vibe under our tent for the next thirty minutes.
We didn’t totally give up hope, though, because we planned to make a pit stop back in Manuel Antonio for some souvenirs before forging on to San José. Maybe, just maybe, they would have her hat.
AND SURE ENOUGH, THEY DID! When we found that damn hat in a store, all four of us felt true joy. I laugh very hard when I think about the whole situation, but it was honestly heartbreaking when she lost the hat she loved so dearly, so we were all very happy to see her find another one just like it.
After our short pit stop, we were on the road again to San José where we would leave my family to catch their 1am flight back to the Midwest.
San José
Our road trip back to San José was really, really fun. All of us were refusing to let the Sunday Feeling get us down. We had some beers in the car (open intoxicants are not a thing here!), formed a little acapella quartet, and reminisced on one hell of a vacation.
Upon our arrival back into San José, we were starved. It was around 8:30pm at this point and all we had eaten was chips and queso on the beach (again). The rental car company shared a lot with a Denny’s, and ya girl had been craving pancakes for weeks, so for our last meal of the trip, after eating authentic Costa Rican food for 12 days, we closed it out with some Denny’s. #noregrets
And it was weird. Good, but weird. I could tell that my mom and Carly were getting antsy about their impending travel day, and the Sunday Feeling finally settled in amongst the group.
After finishing my sticky-bun pancakes, we took the rental car back and shuttled off to the airport.
When we got out of the van, standing in front of the “Departures” doors, I finally allowed the tears to roll in. I was so overwhelmed with love and immense, immense gratitude for all that they had done for us down here. It was the most awesome, epic family vacay we had ever taken, and it was depressing to see it come to a close. I forgot how much I love having those two crazies around, and I knew it would be hard to readjust again.
I hugged them each for a couple hundred years and waved goodbye as they went through the glass doors. Landyn and I caught an Uber home, and Rihanna’s “Stay” came on the radio while I gloomily looked out the window. The whole thing was astonishingly cinematic.
Here’s the thing:
Planes take-off and they land. People come and they go. Vacations begin and they end.
But in-between is filled with some truly extraordinary moments that words, even my own words, and pictures could never fully capture.
To my mom and Carly: thank you for the most fabulous 12 days–for being such troopers and pushing yourselves outside of your comfort zone, for going above and beyond to take care of Landyn and me, and for taking the time to come down here to see us in the first place.
To my other friends: appreciate the in-between, and never let the Sunday Feeling ruin a perfectly wonderful day.
This concludes the Family Vacay Trilogy.
Until next time, friends.



















